Posts by zray

  • 66 head lights

    Quote from 41GPAWS

    My head lights have been working just fine for the last six months and last night they went out while I was on the road, I thought they needed to be replaced so I did not but they are still not working, what should I check for?


    the switch would be first on my list (to chuck).


    Z. Ray

  • Tire Size

    Quote from pony65k

    I'm running on Yokohama Avid Touring Whitewalls 195 75 R14s on 6" wide SSW's. I like the look, although the nose is a little to high. The ride is actually quite good I had 175 on before and the difference is very noticeable.


    RP

    another great look in the 14" size is 195/70-14, and the BF Goodrich Traction T/A is the best tire I've found in that size.


    Z. Ray

  • Compression Test

    here are the results from a compression check I did Nov 2008, done on a warm engine.


    21,000 miles after an engine overhaul. .020 over pistons, stock compression.


    #1 195

    #2 190

    #3 190

    #4 190

    #5 200

    #6 200

    #7 200

    #8 200


    according to Ford Shop manual (Section 8-5, page 109 ) Compression Pressure @ sea level @ cranking speed should be 130 - 170 for the 289 V-8. They don't list any variations for the different V-8 engines.


    Z. Ray

  • Disk Rotors & Pads

    Quote from JamesFee

    quote:

    consider the ebc red stuff pads. I'm using those and am satisfied. For hard spirited street use they are more than adequate. Also using slotted rotors. On the rear I'm using the Porterfield shoes.


    zray,


    Thanks for the info. I am corresponding with Porterfield to get the correct shoes to fit the rear brakes. I still have my old sintered metallic linings - not much use anymore but a hell of a keepsake.


    I'm up in the air about the EBC Red vs Yellow (or go Porterfield all around).


    If I may ask, whose slotted rotors did you use?


    jim


    I bought my rotors from a local guy who does internet business under the name of:


    http://www.discbrakeswap.com/


    Although I have no problems with his service or parts, If I were buying now, I would also check out the ebc rotors listed below. They may, or may not be of a higher quality. Also, I don't know if the ebc rotors are the commonly reproduced 1 piece rotors with the bearing race. Or if the picture of them on the ebc website is accurate, and they are a two piece design:


    2 Parts Found

    Part # Description

    GD7173 Rotor; 3GD EBC Sport; Set of Two; Front; 11.3 in. Dia.;

    UPR7173 Rotor; Ultimax Replacement; Each; Front; 11.3 in. Dia.;


    The Porterfield pads I used were the listed on the

    porterfield invoice as:


    "...shoe 169 R4-S


    R4-S not for race track use...."


    I am also using a braided stainless brake lines sourced from NPD. Part number 2078-14A


    I also bought new brake drums from rockauto.com But I don't know if they are still available from them.


    hope this info is helpful


    Z. Ray

  • Disk Rotors & Pads


    consider the ebc red stuff pads. I'm using those and am satisfied. For hard spirited street use they are more than adequate. Also using slotted rotors. On the rear I'm using the Porterfield shoes.


    my preferred ebc vendor:


    http://www.streetsideauto.com/products.asp?P…&LookupType=YMM


    bought the shoes direct from Porterfield:


    http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/


    Z. Ray

  • 3 X 2 or Paxton ?


    I know price is important in most x vs. y decisions. But in this case I urge you to decide which type of induction system best suits you regardless of the price factor. Otherwise, no matter how much you saved (or didn't) you will be wanting what you didn't buy.


    Z. Ray

  • 3 X 2 or Paxton ?


    btw, I think you can get the vintage Paxton set up for $3000 from craig conley. (that doesn't include carb.)


    Z. Ray

  • Oil

    Quote from timjshanahan

    Excellent, thanks.


    just learned about this product, which appears to have some advantages over the zddplus,


    http://www.cam-shield.com/index.html


    although I don't generally go for additives, this is one that intrigues me, as they actually say how much to add to your oil to arrive at a desired zddp level. Whereas the zddplus company goes for a one size fits all philosophy saying just to add a whole bottle with every oil change.


    some interesting suggesting from the Cam-shield™ website:


    "........ add enough Cam-shield™ premium ZDDP concentrate to get to the appropriate concentration for that application. Current API SM/ILSAC GF-4 oils will have approximately 850 ppm Zinc.


    Minimum of 1200 to 1300 ppm Zinc for normal operation with moderate valve spring pressures *


    Approximately 1600 ppm Zinc for normal operation of muscle cars*


    Approximately 2000 ppm Zinc for racing*


    Approximately 2500 ppm Zinc for new cam/lifter break-in* (supplementing the cam lobe molybdenum break-in paste)....."


    * I purposely deleted (from the cam shield website quote) the amount of cam shield to be added in each example, as that really depends on how much zddp is in your oil already. Their examples are all based on the premise that your oil has 850 ppm of zinc. One size won't fit all...


    ck. out this thread from over at the VMF:


    http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?tid/1502888/


    Z. Ray

  • Oil

    Quote from timjshanahan

    Just to make sure I understand correctly. I have a rebuilt k-code motor which has not been started yet. The motor was rebuilt several months ago and now I will be placing it back in the car. Is it suggested that I put 5-6 quarts of Diesel motor oil in the motor for the break in point? How long should I keep this oil in the motor after the break in point. I assume I should still do the usual 15 minute 2000 rpm initial run of the motor? Thanks for any other advice you can provide. Tim


    If it were my motor:


    1) use a quality 10w-30 conventional oil plus a bottle of comp cam break in lube.


    2) do the usual 15 minute 2000 rpm initial run of the motor


    3) drain oil after 500 miles.


    4) change oil filter & refill with a quality 10w-30 conventional oil plus a bottle of zddp plus

    ( http://zddplus.com/ )


    5) change oil after 3000 miles:


    fill with Mobil 1 15w-50 ( 1200 ppm zddp). that oil would be my first choice.


    or Mobil 1 0w-40 ( 1000 ppm zddp) if you don't want the higher weight oil.


    I don't feel the need for an additive with the oils listed above.


    Opinions vary greatly on this issue.


    Z. Ray