Posts by zray

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    ZRay, Do you use one specific brand of fuel in yours or do you experiment? I always use a name brand to get the benefit of the particular companies additives........."


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    I try to always use Shell premium which is 93 octane in this area. It seems pretty consistent from tankful to tankful. I don't have any compelling logical reason for not using other name brands, except my obsessive-compulsive nature.


    Z.

    running stock Hi-Po engines, with stock timing, on less than premium fuel is asking for trouble.


    I have enough trouble without asking for it. Over the last 45 years I have never had a A code or K code 289 engine that ran decently on anything other than premium fuel.


    Z.

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    I put the cheap 87 in mine their is no difference in performance. once I put jet fuel in one and took it down the runway now that was a difference

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    AVGAS yes, but jet fuel ?


    Jet fuel is basically kerosene and not really a horsepower boost for gas engines, and is hard to get it to burn at all w/o engine modifications.


    from wikipedia:


    jet fuel is a mixture of a large number of different hydrocarbons. The range of their sizes (molecular weights or carbon numbers) is restricted by the requirements for the product, for example, the freezing point or smoke point. Kerosene-type jet fuel (including Jet A and Jet A-1) has a carbon number distribution between about 8 and 16 carbon numbers;


    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_fuel


    In the mid-20th century, kerosene or tractor vaporising oil (TVO) was used as a cheap fuel for tractors. The engine would start on gasoline, then switch over to kerosene once the engine warmed up. A heat valve on the manifold would route the exhaust gases around the intake pipe, heating the kerosene to the point where it was vaporized and could be ignited by an electric spark.

    In Europe following the Second World War, automobiles were modified similarly to turn to run on kerosene from the gasoline which would have to be imported and was heavily taxed. Besides additional piping and the switch between fuels, the head gasket was replaced by a much thicker one to diminish the compression ratio (making the engine less powerful and less efficient, but able to run on kerosene). The necessary equipment was sold under the trademark "Econom".[17]

    During the fuel crisis of the 1970s, Saab-Valmet developed and series-produced the Saab 99 Petro that ran on kerosene, turpentine or gasoline. The project, codenamed "Project Lapponia", was headed by Simo Vuorinen, and towards the end of the 1970s, a working prototype was produced based on the Saab 99GL. The car was designed to run on two fuels. Gasoline was used for cold starts and when extra power was needed, but normally it ran on kerosene or turpentine. The idea was that the gasoline could be made from peat using the Fischer-Tropsch process. Between 1980 and 1984, 3756 Saab 99 Petros and 2385 Talbot Horizons (a version of the Chrysler Horizon that integrated many Saab components) were made.[18]

    Kerosene is used to fuel smaller-horsepower outboard motors built by Yamaha Motors, Suzuki Marine, and Tohatsu. Primarily used on small fishing craft, these are dual-fuel engines that start on gasoline and then transition to kerosene once the engine reaches optimum operating temperature. Multiple fuel Evinrude and Mercury Racing engines also burn kerosene, as well as jet fuel.[19]


    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene


    Z.

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    I realize I don't have a problem and am not trying to create one. Since I've always heard gas with ethanol produces less energy, I merely am wondering if 100% gas rather than 90% gas/10% ethanol might offset the 4% reduction in octane and provide better performance.

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    seems like a question that could be easily answered by a a few gallons of gas and a stopwatch. Let us know how it turns out.


    Z.

    I've never had any issues with 91/93 octane E-10. Using anything else seems trying to find a solution for a non existent problem.


    whether using E-10 gas or not, if you not going to starting your engine for several weeks then using a gas additive such as Stabil is a wise move.


    z.

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    "......So I wonder by having the clutch pedal set level with the brake pedal this spring is not operating in the 'range' that it is supposed to........."

    Mark

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    1) disconnect the clutch rod from the foot pedal.

    2) Take the pedal in your hand.

    3) Slowly move it toward the floor.

    4) at about a little past 1/2 way in the travel it will want to go to the floor by itself. i.e., with the spring assist working. Don't let it pinch your hand to the floor.

    5) if it does this, it is working fine.


    Z.

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    Oh yes, one more thing. After the kar is relatively warm, it idles around 600 - 700 RPM with choke all the way in. After it is real warm and toasty, idles at 900 RPM with choke all the way in.


    Sound normal?


    Thanks.

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    An idle rpm of 900 as normal? Hell no! Try to get an idle speed of 550-650 rpm (the "book" says 750 rpm but I say try for lower).


    Jim

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    may be possible with the autolite, but not so likely with a bigger Holley (715). Even with the smaller autolite, I'd surprised if many people who drive their car year-round can get an idle speed under 700 without fiddling with it every time the air temp goes up or down 10 degrees.


    Still see nothing wrong with an 900 rpm idle.


    Z.

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Oh yes, one more thing. After the kar is relatively warm, it idles around 600 - 700 RPM with choke all the way in. After it is real warm and toasty, idles at 900 RPM with choke all the way in.


    Sound normal?


    Thanks.

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    yes

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    Since leaded fuel has disappeared it is no longer possible to get nice grey tailpipes after a run. They are always black now....."

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    I think it also has something to do with the grade of gasoline. My daily driver (SVT Focus) runs on premium gas and has always had a black tailpipe. So does my '66 which of course is also using premium gas. My partners Focus runs on regular gas and the tailpipe on her car is new looking and without any residue.


    btw, do your eyes burn from an excess gassy smell? Thats a sure sign the engine is running rich


    Z.


    Edited by - zrayrichter on 06/06/2011 20:26:41

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    Bill, Did this happen recently or has it always been this way?


    -Fred-


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    exactly what I was wondering.


    If this has always been that way, then re-jetting might be in order. But if the issue is recent, then there is usually an underlying problem. Could be as simple as a plugged up air filter.


    Z.

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>"........................... Agreed. I ran a solid roller for a while in my 66 and at ~2000 miles the needle bearings were beat to pieces and one lifter came apart. It was not a pleasant sound or experience. The motor was rebuilt with a solid flat tappet cam............" <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    I think there has been a bit of "the sky is falling" hysteria about flat tappet cams failing due to the zinc levels issue. This has led to people going to roller cams, in some cases un-necessarily. With the proper lubrication a flat tappet cam will reliably last a long long time. And roller cams aren't any free lunch either. They routinely require very high spring pressures which brings a new set of headaches to the table.


    Z.

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    Great idea,


    For some reason Comp Cams, doesn't show many street grind mech rollers for the 289. However, if you go to their 351W pages you may get close. Just remember that the firing order may change. Comp Cams, Scheider and Crower can probably all make you one too.


    Was thinking of the same idea to make my race HIPO streetable.

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    a solid roller cam is NOT going to be street-able. It's a race set-up only and, for a number of reasons, street use will beat the needle bearings to pieces. If you "think" you have to have a roller cam , then go with a hydraulic roller. They are routinely good for 6,500+ rpm.


    Z.

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    Are you saying to lower the A arms and use the shorter springs, or just swap springs to lower ride height.

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    lowering the upper a-arms benefits handling and only slightly lowers the car. You can lower the upper a arm AND swap springs if you wish. But the ride height is primarily affected by the shorter springs.


    Z.

    lowering the upper control arms does not affect the ride height very much. It does improve handling in the corners.


    if you want to lower the ride height (in front) you must cut the coil springs or install shorter springs.


    Z.


    Edited by - zrayrichter on 05/26/2011 22:24:13

    the basic budget brand is Patriot. Most places like npd & Virginia Classic Mustang carry them.


    They fit OK. A few years ago they did have some inconsistency with their quality control. I bought a set that did not clear the pitman arm at full lock. I sent them back and got another seemingly identical set that fit just fine. The ones that fit right were nickel plated. That was 10 years ago & I still have them on the car 44,000 miles later. Of course they don't look new now, but are holding up OK considering their age and the usage they have seen. I don't know if Patriot still making the nickel plated variety. Get the ceramic coated ones. The ones that are just painted don't last that long if you drive the car much.


    At the other end of the price spectrum are the ones Jim Cowles sells (Shelbyparts.com). I think they are costing about $995.00 and are supposed to be exact copies of the tri-y's on the original Shelby '65/'66 GT-350's.


    Pros & Cons, they don't take away ground clearance like full length headers do, but make less high rpm power.


    Z.