Posts by zray

Quote

"............I'm thinking the pallate route will be what I'll end up doing but I am concerned about having it basicly open to any kind of damage from careless handling by the shipping company........"

won't be that hard to build a 2 x 4 frame around the pallet & plywood it in.

Z.

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"........................I have found a few different complete weber setups....http://www.inglese.com and http://www.webercarbsdirect.com (both carbureted and fuel injected)....but I have a concern with these being street legal and passing Texas vehicle inspection also this setup is very complex and tuning would be a pain in the a$$......................."

In Texas there is no inspection of emissions or any other engine compartment inspection of cars this old. You are correct about the tuning complexity. I would first find a competent Weber expert, then buy the system. But once it is dialed in Webers have few issues.

The "WOW" factor of Weber induction is undeniable, and in my opinion, unsurpassed by any other set up. There are ways to make more HP, but nothing has the look of those 8 vertical stacks.

Z.

Quote from toffe

I spent a good number of hours on the Internet to find some matching instruments. I know the Vac/boost gauge has a too high scale to get an accurate reading. This was mostly meant to be an indication on when there is any boost at all.

I made the same search myself, with similar results. I would consider placing the gauge so the 5 psi is at the 12:00 o'clock position. That way a quick glance just before you shift (redline) will tell you if you are at or near maximum boost, i.e. the needle should be pointing straight up.

Quote from toffe

Where do you recommend me to place the MAP sensor for the boost/vac gauge?

put a T fitting in the hose that goes from the supercharger to the fuel pump. Run a hose from the T to your MAP sensor, which you can mount where the washer pump or washer bag used to be.

Quote from toffe

I have considered to start drilling in the existing door, I'm just not sure how it will look.

Ill try to see what alternatives I have and go for the existing door if the alternatives does not look good at all.

if you don't want to outlay the cash for a repro door, then I'd suggest a steel or aluminum plate. Have a machine shop cut out the holes for the gauges & then paint it black. Cutting up an original door may be regrettable down the road.

Z. Ray

I do like the idea of having all the gauges by the same manufacturer so they match. But I couldn't find an Autometer boost only gauge in the 0 to 15 lb. range. Needle movement won't be that significant on the 0 to 30 dials. And vac/boost gauges will never be reading vac when (correctly) installed on the pressure side of the Paxton.

this is the only one I found with a 0 to 15 dial when I was looking a while back:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-114500/?rtype=10

and a matching fuel pressure gauge (but no isolator included, a must that has to purchased separately):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-114373/?rtype=10

but Stewart Warner doesn't have the reputation that Autometer has, tough call...

I have heard some gauge manufactures will re-calibrate a gauge to fit an individual application, but haven't tested this theory.

Z.

the console door might work nice. I would remove it and fabricate a plate to mount the gauges in. There are plenty of hot wires to choose from. I think I tapped into a wiper wire for the instrament lights. An inline fuse adds some safety.

what gauges (type, manufacturer, vendor) did you buy?

Z.

I would choose the weber set up IF money was no object, and somebody else was going to dial it in.

Z.

NPD has a great return policy.

Z.

I was never able to get mine to stop leaking when I "rebuilt" it. O ring was correct, but I had some (near) invisible pitting in the bore, I sent it off to a pro who had it fixed right (re-sleeved it) in no time. I can recommend Jim Cowles @ shelbyparts.com without reservation.

Z.

Quote from CharlesTurner

I believe the most obvious fix to this problem is replacing the stainless steel line with a regular steel line.

that's what I would do.

Z. Ray

I wasn't very clear with my answer to the fuel pump question. I didn't mean to infer the the kits sold today might come without a modified fuel pump. Was talking ONLY about what did, or didn't, come with the 1960's era kits. Sorry for any confusion.

Z.

I don't have the guts to put any car I value in a no- reserve auction.

Z.

I read on another forum that a '68 Shelby GT-500 KR sold for 67K. Don't know any details about the car.

http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_d…41&entryRow=230

http://saacforum.com/index.php?topi…icseen#msg70232

Z.

never seen a post by him anywhere. He is totally accessable by phone or email though, and shares information freely.

Z.

Quote

"................... do you know if the Fuel Pumps where changed at the time , i would like too stick with my Rebuilt Pump if possible as i Like the OE Look ............."

Shane

AFAIK, the Hi-Po fuel pump was not modified & used. I have always believed the Paxton "kit" came with a Carter fuel pump that was already modified, You might contact C. Conley at the above email address, He's would know the history better than I do.

Z.

Quote

".................I was wondering how the Spark Arrestor got its name , When it Looks like a Aircleaner Element .

Shane

It differes from aircleaner element in that it's all metal mesh. I suppose a spark has a tough time mavigating thru all the layers of mesh. I think it has to pass some coast guard test to be certified. But for my purposes, one layer of mesh was plenty to diffuse the air flow. More than that was too restrictive. I'm experimenting with adding some holes in the top plate to get maximun air flow & still have some diffusing properties. If I ruin it, it only costs $ 40 to get another one.

Z.

Quote from toffe

Thanks for the pictures Z Ray.

What extra instruments do you have?

EGT and Fuelpressure?

What brand are they?

Where are you routing the hose that comes from the valve covers?

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from left to right (at idle): Boost Pressure (none w/o a load), Fuel Pressure, A/F ratio, engine vacuum, oil pressure. first two gauges are vintage Paxton gauges, a/f gauge is AEM I think, last two are Auto Meter.

the gizmo in the pcv plumbing is a device for catching & filtering out the breather oil before it gets sucked into the intake.

http://conceptualpolymer.com/new_page_1.htm

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Z.

Quote from zray

quote:

Z Ray, did you buy your carb from Craig?

From the quote I got from him it seems a bit pricy compared to summit.

If you have any pictures of your setup that would be great.

Either by mail or in this forum.

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I didn't get the carb from C. Conley, I bought a refurbished carb from Holley. They sell them on ebay. They are warranty returned carbs that are basically new. The price is usually a $100 dollars under Summit's price for a new one. I can't remember if it came with the Nitrophyl floats, or if I had to change them. But anyway, you can save a few dollars if you don't mind tearing into your carb to modify it for the Paxton application, and having to work on the jetting for a while. A carb from C. Conley will save you some time and aggrevation, that;s all.

Will post somephotos soon.

Z.

here is one of those ebay auctions for the carb. They usually apear every week or so, so bidding is low or none:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…ASS%3AUS%3A1123

Z.

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as you can see I removed most of the wire mesh from the spark arrestor as I wasn't getting sufficient airflow, leaving only one layer. Without the arrestor I was having intermittent flooding problems & erratic performance ( a/f ratios were erratic).

I can't really say how this was caused, all I know is a guy over on the SAAC forum swore by the use of a diffuser, and Paxton is recommending one be use with their new kits for carbed engines

From a reseller's ad: "...... Miscellaneous Components: 8M011-001: Air diffuser. 5.75" diameter x 2.5" tall. Mounts on top of 4150 carburetor when installed in Vortech carburetor enclosure. This diffuser stabilizes the airflow entering the carburetor in "blow-through" applications which allows for smoother operation and improved idle when supercharged ....." and from Paxton's web site ".. if the Holley carburetor is used, an air diffuser (#8M011-001) is recommended.."

I don't know how my diffuser compares to the one Holly/Vortech sells.

Z.

Quote from toffe

Z Ray, did you buy your carb from Craig?

From the quote I got from him it seems a bit pricy compared to summit.

If you have any pictures of your setup that would be great.

Either by mail or in this forum.

I didn't get the carb from C. Conley, I bought a refurbished carb from Holley. They sell them on ebay. They are warranty returned carbs that are basically new. The price is usually a $100 dollars under Summit's price for a new one. I can't remember if it came with the Nitrophyl floats, or if I had to change them. But anyway, you can save a few dollars if you don't mind tearing into your carb to modify it for the Paxton application, and having to work on the jetting for a while. A cab from C. Conley will save you some time and aggrevation, that;s all.

Will post somephotos soon.

Z.

Quote from k code 65

Z Ray , are you running the HiPo Fuel Pump still , was wondering if the HiPo Pump ( Rebuilt ) would be sufficient too run with the 650 dble pumper, i too am thinking of Buying a Paxton Package from Craig , craig did tell me you can run with the Std HiPo carb , didnt however mention anything about Choke Clearance Problems.

Is that Link too The spark Arrestor correct , i couldnt open it up

Some pics of the Paxton Set Up would be real nice too view .

Thanks , Shane

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I'm using a Carter fuel pump that C. Conley modified so it is "boost referenced", which is just pressing or threading a brass tube into the vent orifice so it can be connected by hose to Paxton outlet.

If you have a legit Hi-Po fuel pump I wouldn't use it even if the capacity was sufficient. Any drilling or tapping into it is bound to diminish it's value.

The choke towers clear OK, but carbs with them don't have as good of air flow as carbs not having the choke towers.

Try this link: http://www.cpperformance.com/c-479-flame-ar….aspx?pagenum=1

the one I used is half way down the page: 5-3/4" x 1-5/8" Tall Flame Arrestor, Aluminum

I'll take some photos today and post them.

Z.