Posts by GregM_old

    The Big E is the Eastern States Exposition, Massachusets

    ( http://www.thebige.com ) is 10-7pm. My vintage racing friends have apparently been going there for years.Went to Lebanon Speedway recently to try to find parts and froze !!!!

    I had dropped out of vintage racing really since 2001 and have recently dove head first back in since summer 2009 again. Now here I am restoring this K code with the help of this website. I bought the red K code racecar in 1998 and raced it hard and often till I went Motorola Cup/ Grand Am Cup racing in a 1995 Cobra R mustang. Then went SCCA Nationals in a few cars untilJune 2009 Brion of Brion's Restorations dragged me back in. Funny part is he is a corvette guy that is swamped with mustangs !!! Glad to be back vintage racing and having more fun than ever.

    Mayeb we can get you all to bring some Kars out for Sunday in the Park at Lime Rock Labor Day weekend ? I will be racing the red 65 K and with any luck driving the green K Code coupe...... or Brion will be pushing me !!!!

    I am on the hunt for everyting to make this car whole again. Thanks to this site I have been able to gain the knowledge to find the correct pieces. I still have tons of questions to be answered.......


    Edited by - GregM on 01/21/2011 22:28:04

    Here are some pics of my project Kar I purchased a few months back. It was amazing to find pics of the Kar from earlier for sale listings on this site. So here are some pics from the first sale. [Blocked Image: http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z466/GMeindl/5R07K166988-1.jpg?t%201295621588]

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    Here's the transformation at the second sale.

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    And here is the as delivered, doctored up and not fully disclosed issue's vehicle. Now I was fully aware this would be the case so I am not at all dissappointed by all this but I say this to everyone ever thinking of buying any vehicle on e Bay !

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    The Kar is currently on the frame machine. Work has begun to repair all the " restoration " work performed by the previous three owners. I wish they hadn't touched the kar. It has been weeks of going backwards trying to figure out a plan of attack and removing poor work. I have been lucky enough to have purchased original and NOS parts for the Kar so that we have now begun to put it back together. First up was pull the bent front frame rail and make sure the Kar was square. A new floor pan will have to be installed and that is up next. A NOS tailight panel will also be going in and a takeoff radiator support from a parts car. All of the junk aftermarket parts have been removed, hood, fenders, radiator support ( that was tacked in ) and rusted out doors. The trunk lid is original to the Kar and the Ivy Green paint is visible !

    The vin#'s are intact and a the tell tale K code signs are there. I am off to the Big E this weekend for the swap meet to try to find more pieces and will post some more pics when I get them this weekend.

    I have been using Valvoline VR1 in my 65's race motor. No wear after years of spinning it to 8,000 rpm ! It is also cheaper than most of the rest and can be bought locally, when you find it. I buy it in multiple cases when it goes on sale.


    Here's a bit from their website

    Racing Oil

    What are the benefits to using a racing oil versus a regular "street legal" oil?


    The Valvoline VR1 Racing & "Not Street Legal" Racing Oils contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include less detergents than regular conventional motor oils.


    What is zinc?


    The anti-wear additive simply referred to as "zinc" by most car enthusiasts is actually short for Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates or ZDDP. Its primary role is to prevent metal-to-metal contact between engine parts by forming a protective film. Despite being referred to as "zinc," this additive actually contains zinc and phosphorus, with phosphorus performing the anti-wear function.


    Why have the zinc/phosphorus levels in motor oil changed?


    With ever increasing limits on emissions, automobile manufacturers have tightened emission control systems on newer vehicles. This is one of several factors considered when the American Petroleum Institute (API) sets standards for motor oil. The current API standard is "SM" which replaced the previous "SL" classification. Because phosphorus can poison a vehicle's emission system, the level of zinc is lower for current motor oil.


    What is the controversy surrounding the amount of zinc in motor oil?


    Many hands-on car enthusiasts and engine experts believe the lower levels of zinc in "SM" motor oil is causing excessive wear in older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. This is despite the fact that all new motor oil classifications are intended to be backward compatible. This has resulted in the widely accepted belief that modern motor oil is not adequate to protect older engines.


    What solutions does Valvoline offer to the zinc issue?


    Valvoline offers two solutions to the zinc issue:


    Valvoline VR1: Contains 75% higher zinc than SM motor oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: 20w50, straight 50, 10w30, straight 30, straight 40, and straight 60.

    Longer-Lasting Zinc/Phosphorus: Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine instead of poisoning the catalytic converter. Valvoline is the only brand offering this unique additive across its entire line of passenger car motor oils including SynPower -- the only synthetic offering this additive.


    Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" oil?


    Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13% of Zinc and .12% of Phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14% of Zinc and .13% of Phosphorus.


    Can I use an additive to boost the zinc level?


    You can use an additive to increase the zinc level. However, check with your motor oil manufacturer to ensure the additive is compatible with your motor oil.


    Is VR1 a conventional oil, a synthetic or a blend?


    Valvoline VR1 is a conventional, non-synthetic racing oil.

    I am also looking for an alternation for a December 21st 64 built Kar. So I am looking for a 42amp with an orange stamping and no date stamp ? Has anyone bought from BNR thats listed on Ebay ? I e-mailed them inquiring about the alternator.

    I have been tossing the idea around of the Lemans Cam myself. I will open track the car and could use the higher rpm, however I also want it to be streetable.

    Has anyone put these cams on an engine dyno to compare the Hp. gain ? or even a chassis dyno ?

    Maybe someone can post up to YouTube a video of the cars at idle so we can hear the difference and we can link off of this site to it for future reference.

    http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/wheels.html


    Check out this site for the steel wheels. I bought a set of steel wheels that are 15 x 6.5 off of e-bay a while back. They have a Kelsey Hayes sticker inside, got a good deal on them. Wanted a wider steely for the car as it will be driven hard when done.

    My racecar k code raced with steel wheels and was also pictured prio to hardcore racing with the rally wheels dealer installed.


    I also have a magize article from Sportscar Graphic 9/64 that did a road test of the k code mustang. I will post when I get back home tuesday. It has pics of the car with the 15" steel wheels


    Edited by - GregM on 01/15/2011 18:12:30

    Does anyone know of the spare tire bracket in the trunk is different on a late 64 build vs a June 65 build ? Is it different from a coupe to a fastback ? We have a 65 shelby ( June 65 ) on a rotisserie next to my 65 coupe ( December 64) and the brackets are shaped different. Any pictures would be great if you have seen this.

    I bought an e bay koupe. Its of course far worse than described and bounced around through a few owners before me. I went for it so that I didn't have to pay for one that was over priced and not done to the way I wanted it.

    It is now on the frame machine and will undergo a complete restoration using original and NOS parts when possible. It has been a lot of work to find the correct parts and this website has been a great help.

    I wanted a street koupe as I also have a historied racecar K Koupe. The car will be built for me and not with the intention of resale. The cars I have seen here on this site have been done to such a high standard I hope to achieve the same.

    Has anyone persued the correct steel wheels beyond where this thread died ? My car was pictured originally with styled steel wheels in Ralley trim. My car was quickly turned into a race car so I would like to have the correct Kelsey steel wheels to match the photo's of my car back in the day.

    I just missed out on a complete set for $255.


    Greg

    First project up is the seats. I will be undertaking all the little projects on the project while the bodywork and paint gets done. Lukcily I have room to gather and prepare everything I will need for the car and shelve it to await assembly.


    The car came with brand new seat covers in the box along with a new headliner,new kick panels and new visors. Why this would have been purchased way up front is beyond me when the car is nowhere near paint.

    I ordered up and just received all new foam, burlap and hog rings etc. today. I will glass bead the frames , prime and paint them before beginning to recover.

    Has anyone used any particular paint product like something from Eastwood ? Rust Encapsulator paint or chassis black etc. to do theirs ? How did it turn out ?

    Thanks

    It seems that I have one car with a narrow tube 9" and one with a straight tube 9" in it. Which is correct for a late 64 K code ? Where are the numbers located ?


    There was a tag on the straight tube one that read 356 in embossed numbers......... looks to modern so that can't be right. Reached under the car and pulled the tag. Need to look at the casting numbers once I get under there.

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    Sorry to be a pain, but do you mean December '64 or December '65?

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    1964 build.

    I thought everyone would like to see how my car has evolved over the past 40 years from ralley racing to Trans Am

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    Car was painted red after it went on its roof in whats now turn 1 Watkins Glen. Lost the Al Maroone sponsor and Glenwood Acres became the new sponsor.

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    Yes I passed the GT-40 !!!

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    Here we are at New Jersey Motorsports Park starting the SCCA Pro Trans Am event some 40 years later !!!

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