Posts by RPM_old

He updated his listing but still calling it "special".Glad to hear that so many guys have e-mailed him with a good lesson on what he doesn't have!...Rough car and can't believe the price on it as it is just a plain Comet?

Your right as that's just one of the details along with some others.Almost everybody with any kind of Ford or Mercury with a code K in it serial number thinks it's a Hipo car.

If NO records exist of that how do these guys get this info from the Marti report?

Anybody know how many Silver Smoke Gray Hipo cars they made in 1965?

There is none of that junk listed worth that kind of money but everyone who has a Mustang has a 289 Hi-Performance car!

Camshaft specs on the Boss cam are 290 duration 477 lift.

Checked number and corrected it!

Know of any others forsale?

I have a NOS set of FoMoCo 289 Hipo rubber insulators for motor mounts if anybody needs a set?

He said they were parts he made and sold to everyone else with NAMES but they didn't fit and were all wrong.Talking with him with a smart attitude isn't helpful to any customers knowing their cars but keeping their money is along the lines of him being a thief also.He has yet to return our money after 2 months but I have my attorney on it now so we will climb in his ass with a microscope and let him spend some money of his own!

Thanks for the link but it had nothing to do with these factory race 289 Hipo Mustangs.All the info was for the A/FX 427 Mustangs along with the long nose altered cars!

According to a friend of mine who is a NHRA tech man the class for the Hipo Mustangs in the 60's was C/S as the Fairlanes ran D/S.The correct class in AHRA was F3/GS for all the small block cars.I went by his knowledge and he checked the records in NHRA on this car and didn't find an records set by this car in NHRA.I had him check just to be sure that the story was told to me about the record runs was accurate as to them being set in AHRA and not NHRA.Don't know how I could find out about the AHRA records as they went out of buiness along time ago.Anyway your right about the L-M classes as that's what I use to run with my Mustang was L and that was an NHRA class.This Hipo Mustang hasn't been ran as far as I know since 1972 and looks like it as the suspension was never updated and looks like 1965 race trim!

I can tell you from experience that the Eastwood Under Hood Black is dead on color and is lacquer which is what the factory used originally.Personally I like it as if you scratch it etc. you can get their spray can paint and touch it up and you can't tell.The Rustoleum Satin is a good color match also but it's an oil based paint and you just put a tad of mineral spirits in to dilute it some but flows out nice and is pretty tough.The smell will kill you for 3-4 days as it stinks but I've used both with good luck.

Don't anybody deal with Delta Bay Mustangs in Brentwood,Cal.as that guy sells JUNK parts and is a thief to boot.Ordered some parts from them and they sent out some junk that wasn't designed or produced right and told the owner about it and he tried to make out like we're all stupid so I sent them back and guy hasn't returned any of our money.Tell everybody you know to stay away from these crums!

One just sold on E-Bay for $11.00?

Found some addition info on car.These factory ordered race cars were special and I understand from talking with a few knowledgeable Mustang guys that they only made 12 of these factory race Hipo Mustangs and only five have been accounted for with this being the sixth one.Car is missing the original bubble hood but was replaced with fiberglass cowl and R model front racing apron.All it needs is a new home with pics on request?

Yes they are and I have one forsale?

A stock convertor is around 1200-1400 and produces a moderate amount of heat with no take off because it's locked all the time.Duration kills bottom end as it's designed to work on the top end so you need something to wake it up down low.With a stall speed of 3000 the convertor is loose or not locked up all at once letting the rpm's come up to where it does lock fully so it will leave better.With that big a duration camshaft the motor will be sluggish at best with little performance until you get rolling.My thought is why go thru the extra bolt ons unless your looking for performance.Now with that being said the convertor at 3000 stall speed and tranny cooler you'll be ready to do some performance runs.

With any automatic you don't want to foot brake it as you take the stall out of the equation.The whole idea of a convertor with stall is to use it in the manner for which it was designed.Yes it's like dumping a clutch at 3000 rpm and the flash I talked about is the time between idle to lock-up point at which the convertor reaches it highest point with lock and then motion.I personally change fluid about every 15000 as the factory requires change at 30000 but automatic trans fluid has cutting properties and should be changed on a regular basis.I've run 8500 rpm stalls before but only for drag use!

Great topic as I've pretty much always been a stick guy but within the last 10 years have excepted the automatic thing.Anyway I've played with a bunch different combinations thru the years and for your application I would go with a 2800-3000 rpm stall.Don't go with no more then that as it's tough to drive on the street.A 2500-2800 with under a .300 duration camshaft is perfect but anything over that you should be in the 3000 rpm stall range.What ever convertor you buy check with manufacturer as weight of car(big factor)make a difference in flash point of convertor and they usually have all that data.From all the practice I've had a install of a tranny cooler on any automatic is a great thing and a requirement as far as I'm concerned even on stock trans as heat is what takes a automatic out.Most people spend a good dollar amount redoing automatics with good parts like shift kit(biggest bang for the buck),servo,extra clutches,convertor etc. so take from someone who knows as I've spent years track testing mods to tranny and motor combinations.With your gears etc. it should run real good so take it to the track and have some fun.