Posts by RPM_old

Anybody know where you can get the sheet metal piece that has the hole in it that bolts to core support and top of grille on 65 Shelby?Also how about the aluminum piece between the wide grille moldings that covers the two pieces in the center?

They never dated a block plate so you don't have to worry about that one!

Going thru some more parts and found 3 different NOS Ford pumps.All are Carters and numbers are 3830S,3831S and 4978SA.Can anybody tell me what these are and fit?

Was going thru some of brothers parts and found a CARbureTOR 4201S fuel pump.It appears to have been rebuilt at sometime but arm is missing spring.Zinc real decent and looks good and works good as I tested on motor but date code hard to read.If anybody needs it make me an offer

Jeff,supply tag info and color on governor?

I've got an early 289 Hipo balancer for sale.It has C5OE on it with early H4 date code.Bead blasted and painted correct color for $600

That's kinda odd info as I thought they didn't build any automatic Hipo's Mustangs in 12/64?Wouldn't you be able to tell a manual trans radiator from an automatic one by holes in bottom tank?Where do these prices come from?

Please leave me your e-mail address in my inbox as for some unknown reason my e-mails are not getting thru which doesn't surprise me...Thanks

Sent personal e-mail about parts...Thanks

I've got a 66 snubber to trade for a 65 if anyone has one?

Got rebuild kit from AMK as I had found that most of the people who have parts for these pumps want to stick it to you for shipping plus cost of kit.Anyway I got the AMK kit which is made to use the gas today as the rubber stuff isn't really rubber anymore.Kit seems to be nicely made but there are some mods to be made as some of the kit parts doesn't have some of the holes needed so pay attention to your stock parts and replicate but rebuild was real nice and pump looks great.Have to get a spring and arm yet but should work out.I have some other parts I'm going to use and will update as I finish as to what I used!

That same person who runs ads on E-Bay also posts here and i think is a member.The housing is like $2200-$2500 and he is crazy if you ask me.You can get a fabricator to make one for alot less money but to some people money is no object or what is asked for price from most of these members!

I've got a 1 inch original 1965 Shelby front sway bar for sale or trade.I'll trade for complete GT front sway bar or outright $100.00?

After cleaning pump arm and pin using bottom and front holes with carb cleaner I removed the spring and bottom arm to spring and pin came out with long needle nose pliers working from center.Push spring up and pump arm comes lose.Now all I have to do is get diaphragm out of housing and find rebuild kit and I'm good to go.However this is a 3734S pump and not the crimped kind housing as my car is early!

I've got a 3734S I'm trying to get apart and I wondered if anyone can tell me how to get the diaphragm out of housing.for some reason it don't want to come out and I also have the arm out and need some advice on where to get a new one?

And Fred wins again!

There are lots of the 5 bolt blow proofs still around as only a few guys still run the 5 bolts and everybody had one when Ford went to the 6 bolt block.Probably be lucky to get $150 for it but Good Luck on $750!

Someone who would pay $2K is either printing money,has NO brains or both!

I guess what I'm asking what process and tools are you using to get the pin out?I haven't really figured out a way to get hold of it without using a punch?

Fred,how do you get the pin out of pump arm without drilling pump?