Posts by iowa_old

your right

these are too big for my K car

s.o. must have tampered w my son's '66

soooo.......

i'll be needing a Bell H for my '65 (12/12/64)

anyone have one?

thanks

iowa

hmmmm....

i thot the 6 bolt Bell H

was the same for my Kcar?

and i've never figured out

what, or how a flywheel is balanced

iowa

we pulled patricks engine today

the flywheel is a C5AE 6380-E 4 9L12 C77E-A

the bellhousing is C5TA-6394-A 68r8

he's going to use a new Bell H for his T5 conversion

so will use his old Bell H! in my K car

haven't spent much time on my K car

as we've been working on his T5 project

now he's going to clean up the engine and

engine compartment

then we'll put it all back together!!

[Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/2010_12_26_04_patrick_engine_almost_out.JPG]

thanks for great photos!!

iowa

Since my my son is going to the T5

we are thinking about useing the T5 Bell H

so I would then use his old one on my K car.

my K was built Dec 19, so should have a 6 bolt Bell H

iowa

i always ask a Q and then

think to look in the HiPo bible.

your right, only pre 8-20-64's used the 5 bolt Bell H!

all the rest used the 6 bolt.

thanks

iowa

been away tring to get wings in boston!!

also we are converting my son's '66 to a T5 trannie!!

2 Q's

would a '66 C code 289 2V use a 6 bolt Bell H

and would my '65 K code use a 6 bolt as well

thanks

iowa

65 rangoon

i checked the other side, and there is a doubler there!!

i checked the weld and sealant assb manual

and it does not show this double on the diagram on page 18.

thanks for the very nice explaination!!

i'll probably have to check out the other inner side

to get exact measurements to weld another one in.

thanks

iowa

here is the inner L front frame extension.

it appears that there was an extra piece

of sheet metal spot welded in on the bottom front.

has anyone else found this to be so?

on the inner lower edge,

one can see where there is residual metal from this.

or, has the metal just split into 2 pieces from rust?

one can see the spot weld by the oval hole in the bottom front

what do you think?

iowa

[Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/2010_11_07_001_L_frt_frame_ext_inner.jpg]

[Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/frt_ext_spot_welds_copy.jpg]

i agree

these fiberglass boxes are easy to repair

iowa

my son and i replaced his heater core last night.

we had a good time and learned a lot.

this thread was quite helpful.

a couple of comments tho:

all the rubber seals were either gone

or crumbled to dust!!

be sure to let the trim adhesive get tacky

on both surfaces before you apply the rubber pieces.

trial clamp everything together to ensure good fit

before installing the little metal clips

we had to adjust the largest vent door

as we could see where it had rubbed a dime sized

hole in the fiberglass; bet this drove s.o. crazy!

REMEMBER to put in the large fresh air vent rubber!!

we forgot and had to remove the unit from the firewall!!

as the fan motor worked fine, we did not change

the seals between it and the 'squirrel' cage

and.....it seems like the casting nuts are pretty

flimsy to be holding the heater unit up to the firewall?

but......i guess between them and the core hoses

and the other hook ups, it is secure enough!

now to check the motor switch etc.

it is nice to be helping my son do his C code stang

as it will really help when i go to do the K code!!

thanks

iowa

i’ve thot long and hard deciding

what type of restoration to do on my K car.

1st, it won’t be an ‘nth degree concours’ one.

i won’t spend the rest of my life trying to be perfect

.....but, i do respect and admire those that do!!

my other projects include 3 more WWII jeeps,

a 1953 MG, and a Piper L4 WWII spotter airplane.

I figure that if each takes me 3 years,

i’ll be in my 70’s when their all done!

Then it’s time to enjoy them and just ‘tinker’ on something.

This K car will be driven for my enjoyment ;

mostly nice weather, but won’t be afraid to get it wet.

i do think it important not to do s.t. irreversible

to these very unique cars; i.e. chop them up

and make dragsters etc. out of them,

as i feel that s.t. in the future.....say 100 years from now,

they all could turn into ‘concours’ cars!

what is the most accurate count of how many

K cars are out there?

iowa

i just received a pump from him last week

very easy to deal with

and a great pump

wished it was time to install it!!

iowa

thanks for replies

my engine man says that 6 of the 8 original pistons

are very usable

so will probably be putting them up for sell here s.t.

what are pistons going for now?

will start on that shock tower today

will be using material from another mustang

....and....gulp.....it will be from that '66 C code

but at least it is a Dearborn car too

and i've scrutinized every square mm of it

and can find absolutely no differences in its construction

in comparision, the repro's are quite a bit different!!

more pics later

iowa

my engine needed to be bored out to 30 over

so will not be using my old pistons

(6 of 8 are okay)

should i keep them with the idea of

someday sleeving my engine in the distant future?

or sell them?

thanks

iowa

could s.o. post of pic of these 'remote' mirrors

iowa

Q's

can one replace bottom only part of shock tower (B-L dotted line)?

for better handling, one drills the bottom arm holes 1" lower;

is the rear hole supposed to be lower than the front one?

what is best way to do this?

does anyone know what the rubber plug was for in rear of frt frm ext?

iowa

[Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/K_car_L_outer_shock_tower_repair_copy.jpg]

removed outer part of the left front frame extension

here is the inner anatomy of where bolts go thru

outside for a little more blasting to clean up the rust

Q what is the orfice used for where the little rubber plug is?

was it for inspection or to line up the bolt guides?

thanks

iowa

[Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/2010_10_30_001.jpg]

thanks for the pic charles!

i believe it looks the same as mine

i'll only be cutting out the rusted areas

and keeping all the good metal

iowa

thanks

the reason i asked

is becasue the very front pieces below the radiator

are also beat up some

and i that maybe these curves

could have been the result of a crash

iowa