Posts by 66tiger_old

  • 66 GTKFB with Koupe vin? 6T09K285286

    Sold for ???? E-Bay Listing: 66 GTKFB with vin # 6T07K286???

    By Seller:artman89 in Atlanta, Georgia


    Quote

    1966 Mustang Fastback K code project. Primered and sanded for safekeeping. Appears to have it's original quarters, top, trunk, frame and all original front clip, radiator support, aprons, shock towers etc. It has a newly installed one piece full floor. Needs doors, hood, glass, trunk lid, interior and mechanicals. There is no rust rot on the car! It has GT stud brackets for the exhaust that only GT's came with. Rockers don't have holes for molding, quarters have never been drilled for side ornaments, rear of floor beefed up for dual exhaust hangers. It has one set of numbers on the original apron only. It needs alot, but it is a terrific and solid blank canvas (ie: all stripping and the difficult metal work is not required). This project has a lot of potential and could be EXTREMELY valuable once restored! I have an open title for the car. I can be reached via ebay's messaging system or at remote email: 89champ@gmail.com


    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…atchlink:top:us


    *Rare Limited Edition Koupeback?

  • Need some advice...

    Gerry,

    Are you upgrading the radiator on your Tiger? There are several aftermarket companies that make aluminum units now, which do a better job of cooling. Seems like alot of work switching motors to break in an engine. Even once the engine is broken in, if it's running hot you will have to address the cooling system, so why not get it right from the start. There is a fair amount of info about these upgrades if you do an internet search.

    For your Kvert, you talk about resale value, so you might be selling it in the future. If it's an original car, stock is better. I am not sure the pricey Shelby parts would make your vert more sellable, even with the stock parts going along with the sale. The Shelby parts by themselves would bring a pretty good price in the marketplace, and chances are your K would sell for the the same $'s with or without the Shelby parts on it. Either way, as mentioned, switching them is an afternoon job if you decide to sell.

  • authenticating engine

    Richard,

    Welcome aboard! Your best resource for information is the 4th Edition of the HPM Registry which can be ordered thru this site, just look to left. You can also do a "search" to the left and it will provide a bunch of info already discussed. Good luck on the project.

  • pulsating lights

    Is the pulsing of the lights on a regular interval, or intermittent?

    If it's on a regular basis, I would suspect regulator, or possibly dirty ground connections as mentioned. If it is irregular, I would suspect a short in the harness possibly at a thru panel hole.

    Check the harness from front to back, sometimes when a previous owner has cut a wire, then stripped the end & twisted it back together, then taped over things, it can corrode and cause problems.

  • Car wants to die when I stop?

    Sounds like it's time for a carb rebuild. Are you running a Holley? That is what it looks like from your engine compartment pic's, looking at the way the gas line is run.

    Do you drive it regularly, if not do you add a gas stabalizer to keep everything in working order? Gas goes bad fairly quickly and it can gum up the works.

    I have had conditions you described that were only corrected by rebuilding the carb, especially with Holley's. If you are running a Holley, getting an original ford carb(mucho $'s), or a Pony Carbs Hipo repro will be a good choice for dependability.

  • 5F08K777151

    Auction ended Sept. 30 with no bids: 65 K Conv.

    BIN of $36k

    By seller "ohioshirley" in Otway, Ohio



    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…:MEWA:IT&ih=002

  • over heating

    You mentioned higher compression pistons, what compression ratio are you running? High compression ratio & low octane unleaded gas = higher engine temps.


    Having a brown coolant color sounds like left over rust in the block prior to rebuild or engine sitting with just water in it. That stuff will clog a radiator in a hurry. The brown color might be an indication of combustion gas in the cooling system (blown head gasket).


    As mentioned above, you can get a test kit that you replace the radiator cap with the kits modified cap, which lets the coolant gases run out the kits cap and into a bottle of their test fluid, which will change to a specific color with the presence of combustion gases. Fairly cheap, easy way to test for blown head gasket. Compression check will also help


    Also, what condition are the radiator hoses? How about the lower radiator hose, does it have the coil spring in it to prevent hose from collapsing under high water pump loads? I have seen them flatten out under high revs on other engines.


    Also, try a new quality radiator cap. If the one you have isn't holding pressure, it will allow coolant out sooner. An inexpensive overflow bottle mounted to the drivers front apron might be a good idea until you get things figured out. It will keep alot of the overflow coolant from going all over the engine & it will allow

    overflow coolant back in as engine cools off.

  • over heating

    My experience with blown head gaskets is that the engine temp will steadily rise and keep climbing from initial startup, until it pukes coolant out, since the cooling system is continually being pressurized.


    If one of the head gaskets was installed backwards, it will act like you initially described, not really overheating until you are out driving the car. Is this the first time you have fired the engine up after a rebuild?


    If not did it run hot before? If it hasn't had any internal work and ran okay before, I would suspect the radiator being clogged.

  • 65 K FB Shell

    65 K FB Shell on Craigslist:


    Listing Info:

    65 K fb shell sitting a my trailer.no motor/trans/rear end/suspension.have the seats,glass,decklid,foldown seat&panels,wireing.i don't see any rot.it does have surface rust though,the core support is off and so is the id panel but still have it along with the orig door tag.all id #s in there places,body looks pretty good...driver 1/4 needs work.orig ca car $14,000


    http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?tid/1470245/


    Car is fairly close to me if anyone is interested.

  • Type of Carb and Intake Manifold?

    Steve, What part of CA are you in? Is the car in your area? Chances are someone on this forum has seen or knows about the car. The pic's elude to a kar that has been modified, which leans towards the K specific parts maybe being original parts, but might not be correct/original for this car. Subframe connectors & the stambar/sway bar hint to someone building more of a mod type car vs. an original car. What's the vin #? Is the tranny the vin # stamped tranny for this car? My 65 San Jose KGTFB has a vin stamped San Jose 66 KFB motor in it. Maybe it came from this car? I bought the car out of the LA area. Stranger things have happened. Does the 65 block have a vin # stamping on it? It looks like this is a blue exterior, white interior GT. Does the door tag match the trim/paint codes? There was a blue 66 KGTFB that sold out of San Francisco about 2-3 years ago. It went up to Eldorado Hills (outskirts of Sacramento). It was supposed to have the original drivetrain. Don't know if it's the same car. Good luck on your research. Always buy the most complete car you can find, picking up the K specific parts gets pricy real fast.

  • listings that drive me nuts

    I got burned by dallas classics a few years ago when I had a Koupe for sale on e-bay. He offered to buy the car & end auction early, I said no, he ended up being the high bidder at the end of the auction. I contacted him about finalizing the purchase since he was high bidder. He then came up with a lame excuse that one of his kids bid on the car under his name. He makes a living by hitting the e-bay auctions every day and offering to end the auction early for a set price (usually low), then does a quick engine detail & overall cleanup & relists them under the ford chevy handle.

  • Looking for rear axle shafts

    Finding them might not be the problem, finding a set that aren't "tweaked" is the hard part. If I'm not mistaken (and I usually am) the axles for a 9" are the same as the 8" for the hipo's.

    You might check one of the aftermarket suppliers, might be cheaper in the long run to get a true set.