Posts by wlewis_old

Thanks for the info.

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It's made of cardboard. I found it in the glovebox of an old '65. Is it a keytag? The numbers read as follows:

HSWBP 52466

LA7F 2051 C2

C7Z B6563101 A

Walter

Thanks!

Would someone please give me the instructions on how to post pictures on this forum. Someone once gave me the name of the website needed to post pictures, but I misplaced it. Many thanks!

Walter

Thanks for the info.

Anyone know what an aluminum medium or hi rise manifold marked "FORD" in block letters on the front and numbered C90X 9424B on the rear is? Who is manufactured by?

My HiPo with a high rise manifold, holley carb and electric choke, starts fine when cold after pumping pedal one or two times. Hot starting is another story. Sometimes, it will start fine when hot, but most of the time, it just turns over as if it's not getting fuel. At times, I've pumped pedal enough times when I can smell gas. Other times, numerous pumping of the pedal, will cause it to start. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Walter

You're right. It does look like mine. Thanks to all of you. You've all been a lot of help to me and I appreciate it.

Walter

I have a similar motor mount problem. See my "Exhaust manifold" post below this one. Since I couldn't find parts for the original type, I ordered a set of Ron Morris aftermarket mounts. They're installed now, but not adjusted because tranny is out of car and I'm waiting to get it back from rebuild shop. Hopefully, they will work.

Walter

Ralph,

I see what you're talking about. I spoke with Fred yesterday and he sent me pictures as well. I was looking at the rounded corners of the "body" of the snubber whereas I think you, Fred and others were speaking of the square corners of the flange area. I'm afraid you're right about the single exhaust setup. It appears my car's had a change in rear floorpan or maybe even a rear clip. I'm in Savannah.

Walter

It's definitely a K code. Ralph, looking at Tony's book, the later model 65's have a rounded axle bumper plate. See the picture on page 90 in his book. The previous owner told me he thought the original owner used the car to drag race, so maybe that explains the swap to a limited slip axle.

Looking at the 9" Rear info under "Tech and Info sites" in this website, it indicates HiPo 9" rears have tapered axle housings. Seperately, Tony Gregory's HiPo book says there were no limited slip rears on 65 HiPos. That being said, my rear end/axle on my 65 does not appear original as the axle housings are not tapered. Additionally, my rear is a limited slip. I've posted pictures below for feedback. As info, in case you can't read the tag on the rear, the numbers are as follows:

WFE-C 9AD

3L50 9 357A

Do I have an original rear axle on my car?

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Edited by - SixT5HiPo on 02/10/2009 01:24:59

Thanks Jim.

I didn't realize original style motor mounts were so difficult to find. So as to not dupicate posts, please read my "Motor Mount" post under K Specific parts.

Thanks,

Walter

Does anyone make reproduction HiPo upper and lower motor brackets (C3OZ-6046A, C5ZZ-6028-A, C5ZZ-6O29-A)? The only repo parts I've been able to find are the rubber insulators and bolts. Would regular 289 engine mounts, like the 66's use, work on a 65?

Walter

Thanks mu5tanggt,

I think I'll try the original style motor mounts and if that doesn't work, I'll take a good look at the ones you mentioned.

Walter

Is it possible or practical to convert my HEH P to a close ratio box?

Toploader ID Tag Identifier from http://falcongt.com/toploader.html says HEH-T was used on 65 K codes from 8/20/64 to 10/1/64 and HEH-BX WAS USED ON 65/66 K's from 10/1/64 so it looks like BX should have come with my car.

I'm glad to know hood clearance should be OK with Hi Rise manifold. My air cleaner is correct. I was only speculating there might be a clearance problem that led to the change in motor mounts. After further inspection, the situation has become more puzzling.

The exhaust manifold is not only laying on top of left motor mount, but the boss on the side of it rubs the side on the engine compatment (shock tower, I believe). Raising the engine up a bit would fix that situation, but here's the kicker: The clutch equalizer bar is so close to the exhaust pipe (a few inches behind manifold), that raising it up at all, would cause it to rub the exhaust. It looks like the clutch equalizer bar might need to be removed and bent at the lower "S" section. From looking at the clutch equalizer bars shown in Tony's HiPo registry, it looks like I do have the correct clutch equalizer bar. Anyone have any thoughts? I didn't realize I wqs getting into such a project when I bought the car. Guess I should have known better.

Walter

Thanks for the tip, caspian65. My motor mounts don't look like the ones shown in Tony Gregory's book. I'm afriad what might have happened is this:

My car has an aftermarket Hi Rise manifold. I'm guessing that one of the previous owner's replaced the original engine mounts to lower the engine, giving him clearance for the manifold.

Before I consider looking for original style engine mounts to replace the existing ones, I'll need to measure the clearance between the hood and air cleaner. Presumablely, I'll need another 1/2" to an inch.

If there's not enough additional available clearance, I'll have to relace the Hi rise with a stock manifold or just leave everything alone. Surprisingly, it doesn't rattle or vibrate now, even with the exhaust manifold touching the side of engine compartment.

Am I on the right track?

walter