Troy, radiator shroud, radiator and battery tray should be semi-gloss which is glossier than the engine compartment. Your shroud appears to be correct, can't tell for sure from the pictures. It looks like your radiator has been recored. A couple years ago I would have recommended an NOS battery tray but prices are starting to get rather high. If you search you may still be able to pick one up fairly reasonable. The repop isn't too bad and would serve the purpose. I would guess the one you have now is a replacement as I've seen very few that aren't rusted all the way through.
Posts by 66KGT_old
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My kar is a factory pony interior and had standard mirrors. The visibility group is the only option I added during the restoration.
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Quote from noelfisher
quote:
Routing of engine compartment wiring is easy in these cars, don't sweat it. If you don't get NOS wiring to replace the existing make sure what you buy is made by Midland. Last I knew that was what NPD carries....
Or Alloy Metal from New York State.
Ooooops, that's what I meant to say...
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Quote from 66gtkDisplay More
Thanks - I'll try that! When I re-attach the hoses later, should I use any sealer or soap or something of that nature on the inside of the hoses?
I appreciate your help. Stay tuned for more as I continue to take things off my beloved Mustang. I'm attempting a restoration of the underhood area and am finding many surprises along the way.
My other biggest concern is the wiring. I want to replace it or refurbish much of it but I'm concerned about getting everything routed correctly when it's time to reassemble. Photos and notes only go so far. Everytime I unplug something, I lose my reference point from the last removed item! Any suggestions?
Troy
Routing of engine compartment wiring is easy in these cars, don't sweat it. If you don't get NOS wiring to replace the existing make sure what you buy is made by Midland. Last I knew that was what NPD carries....
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Sold this time around for $1,225.00
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Quote from Joe6pack
Next question. Can the lever be removed and replaced without un-crimping the pump? Adding the dimple should be fairly simple. This appears to be a simple sheet metal part. Its not a castpart. The turn downs (ribs, gussetts or whatever you want to call them) carry the load. Is the dimple on a true hipo pump lever visible from the top? Does it look like it was put in using a tool and die and a press? If this is the case, it may be possilbe to modify a pump without disassembly.
Back to the rub... no, the arm can't be replaced/removed without uncrimping the pump. Stamping a dimple in an assembled pump could be fun. Yes, the dimple is visible from the top but the pump has to be out of the car... The only visible difference in the hipo pump when installed is the 4201 stamping and date code, even that isn't readily visible as it's on the bottom flange. JD Larson has two 4201 pumps in his new arrival parts list this month, one is a Carter and one is a CarBURAter if you must have a 4201. http://www.allclassicmotors.com
Uncrimping and recrimping a pump usually leaves tail-tell signs of this being done. New lower bodies are not available, the gaskets and diaphrams can be made. Murf has located a rebuilder who MIGHT rebuild our pumps but nothing definate yet.
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You conveniently don't show the side that shows if these are Carter pumps or CarBURAter pumps. I'm in for one of them if it's the latter....
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Welcome Bob!
You just sent me an autographed copy of your book a couple weeks ago, appreciate you taking the time to sign it for me. Fantastic book!
It's great to have you on board here, your knowledge of these engines is second to none.
Merlyn
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Quote from Joe6pack
Now, here's the hard part. How do you take apart and re-assemble a crimp together pump?
That's the rub. There are a few rebuilders out there that still have the crimp tool but no replacement parts to rebuild the pump.
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Quote from marv
District Sales Office (DSO) is the hardest in the creation of a Warranty Tag.
Ooops, Marv is correct. I forgot the DSO.
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We might be able to fill in most of the blanks if you have original interior, trans, rear, etc in the car and can provide us info, build date is the hardest, a VIN # compared to others can get you close.
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Please let us know how it goes Rene...
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Welcome Jeff, Feel free to ask questions as you progress in your restoration, someone here will help. Post pictures if you can, we love pictures!
Merlyn
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That's a rare find. Hate to see the final price for it...
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You to huh? Seems certain times of the day are worse than others. Ping times are good to the server, it appears the host machine is just plain overloaded...
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As far as I'm concerned the most reliable coil for driving is an original. I've been contemplating one of the new VA coils for show but this report is not promising. This is just the info I've been waiting for before purchasing one. Anyone else bought one of these yet?
I have no doubt a NAPA replacement will hold it's own for driving, however it is not a yellow-top.
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AMK is the way to go. Not all fasteners are 100% correct but the convenience of having everything packaged and labeled for the application is fantastic. Not cheap, but worth the money.
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Sold for final sale price by seller
BuyItNow set at 139,000
QuoteDisplay MoreCONVERTIBLE
64 MILES SINCE RESTORATION
MULTIPLE
MCA
CONCOURSE GOLD WINNER
SHOWS AND EVENTS
HOUSTON NATIONALS-99.86%
PENSACOLA, FL NATIONALS-99%
NASHVILLE SPEEDWAY 40th ANNIVERSARY- GOLD PLAQUE
MISSISSIPPI GULF COAST NATIONAL 99.43% 696 OF 700
SPRINGFEILD GRAND NATIONAL 99.42%
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