Posts by motor-racer_old

Thanks and now understood on NPT threads. Thanks for the tip on the distributor as well.....

However, on the exact sizes, for a 1/4" - 18 NPT thread the major diameter is listed as 0.540" and the minor diameter at 0.442". Now, the holes in the front of the block that take the original 1/2" diameter press in plugs are obviously already 0.50" bores. Therefore the minor diameter of the NPT thread after tapping will be 0.50". That doesn't sound like enough thread.

If you guys say that you simply run a 1/4" - 18 NPT tap into that original 1/2" hole then I'll give it a go, but just wanted to double check.

Hi.

If changing the original press in 1/2" oil galley plugs over to the screw in type, what actual screw in plugs are used - and who sells them?

Looks like it needs to be at least 9/16" UNF to be able to tap a full height thread?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Does this look genuine to the experts?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…RTQ:MOTORS:1123

Thanks.

Thanks Fred. That's what I thought. But on these rods there doesn't appear to be any material left at all. Is it normal to remove almost all the material on the top for balancing?

Thanks. Isn't there meant to be material protruding from the top of the rod? That's what the photos in Tony Gregory's book show.

Are these proper HIPO rods? Thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/289…sspagenameZWDVW

What do you think of these? Do they look genuine?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…:MEWA:IT&ih=015

This is what Castrol UK technical department repied with :

"The Valvemaster does not contain lead - it is designed to burn and produce a phosphorus ash to protect valve seats. With regard to the USA - I'm afraid I don't know - I would suspect that there is a suitable alternative available in the USA, but best to contact a local dealer there for their advice."

Useful to know it doesn't contain lead so import to USA should be fine. Unfortunately no real information on equivalent products available from Castrol USA.

I've sent an email in to Castrol UK technical department to ask them about Valvemaster Plus lead content and exporting to USA. I'll let you know when I hear back.

Sorry, yes, I'm in UK and I'm not sure what brand Castrol Valvemaster Plus is marketed under in USA.

Maybe you could ask Castrol USA about it? If they don't already do it, they may import it for you anyway.

For octane booster I use Castrol Valvemaster Plus (Lead replacement petrol additive plus octane boost) which is a phosphorus based product. It is specifically designed and blended for classic cars and I have had no detonation issues at all.

I actually use Castrol product for everything (oil, additive, coolant, etc) because I've had such good experience with it. Probably because they have been doing it for over 100 years.

Just in the process of restoring the instrument panel and I wondered what the correct colour for the instrument panel "backing plate" was meant to be? It is Ford part number C5GF-10894.

From the outside, you can see about 1/2" of this piece around the edge of each instrument dial.

Is it supposed to be painted silver or black?

Thanks for any info.

Thanks for the info.

All. Thanks for the info. I learnt something new....

From reading previous posts, I mistakenly thought the Buddy Bar casting valve covers with open letter "Cobra Powered By Ford" were only for Shelby cars, and that dealer dress up kits for non-Shelby K codes, A codes, etc. didn't have Buddy Bar casting. Now I just need to get a set!

Thanks again.

Most of the Cobra valve covers that you see for sale are natural aluminium all over (ie. not painted black). In fact there is a Buddy Bar set on Ebay now at : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…0204309103&rd=1.

In Bob's "Small Block V8" book, it says that Cobra valve covers were black in finish (with natural Al only along the top of the fins I believe?).

What is the correct finish in '65?

And, is it correct that the Buddy Bar versions were only for the Shelby cars? So, if you bought a dress up kit for a non-Shelby Mustang, presumably they would NOT have been Buddy Bar castings? If that is the case, then it makes it hard to be sure you've got original non-Shelby versions because presumably they would look just like repro versions.

Thanks. Any feedback appreciated....

When I took the strut rods off to restore them, the steering limiter was mounted ON TOP of the strut rod (ie. Limiter -> Strut Rod -> Lower Control Arm).

I checked the '65 front suspension illustration (P-3120) in the Ford manual and it appears to show the steering limiter mounted BELOW the strut rod (ie. Strut Rod -> Limiter -> Lower Control Arm).

Maybe it's obvious, but what is correct?

Also, does the straight vertical id mark on the strut rod to the lower control arm end face DOWNWARDS as the strut rods are installed in the car?

Any feedback much appreciated. Thanks.

Fred. Thanks for the pictures, it's completely clear. The C5AE appears to be a more robust design as the taper out to the belt running surface is more sympathetic to where the bending moment on the pulley will be. I'll drop you back an email tonight. Sam

I would recommend you speak to Mark at http://www.toploaderheaven.com/

He is based in Oklahoma.

Actually I ordered this book from Amazon a couple of days ago because I saw it had detail on this subject (and others obviously). Thanks.

Fred. Thanks for the info, I've sent you my email address.

So, that means if the car DOESN'T have power steering it should have the C5AE and if it DOES have power steering it should have the C5OE? And, does the interference to the belt with the taper on the pulley make any real difference? Thanks.